How to commission cosplay armor and get quotes you can compare
Searching for an armor commission mostly turns up shop listings and forum threads. Useful if you already know what you want. Less useful if you're trying to work out what to ask for, or why two quotes for the "same" suit are miles apart. This page is the buyer's side.
Decide the scope first
Armor is priced per piece and per finish level. Before you contact anyone, write down three things.
Which pieces. A full suit and "just the helmet and chest" are different jobs. List them: helmet, chest, back, shoulders, upper arms, gauntlets, belt, thighs, shins, boot covers. Say which ones you'll make or source yourself.
Which material, or maker's choice. EVA foam, 3D print and resin all show up in armor builds. Foam is lighter and survives crowds. Prints hold sharp panel lines. Resin gives the finest small detail. Hybrids are common. If you don't know, say so and let the bids suggest something.
Which finish. This is where quotes split the most. A raw print needs sanding, filling, priming and paint before it looks like anything. Experienced builders on the 405th forum point this out to first-time commissioners all the time: finishing is real work, not an extra. Pick one:
| Finish level | What you get | What's left for you |
|---|---|---|
| Raw / kit | Printed or cut parts, unfinished | Sanding, priming, paint, strapping |
| Primed | Cleaned and primed parts | Paint, weathering, strapping |
| Painted | Painted to your references | Strapping and fitting |
| Wearable | Painted, strapped, fitted | Nothing but wearing it |
Say which row you want. Then makers are all quoting the same job.
Measurements armor makers need
Armor doesn't stretch. A chest plate that's 2 cm too narrow won't close. Send:
- Height, chest, waist, hips, shoulder width (bone to bone)
- Head circumference, plus head length front to back, for helmets
- Forearm and calf circumference at the widest point, and their lengths
- What you'll wear underneath (undersuit, padding, cooling vest)
Measure over that underlayer. If the maker offers a cheap test print or paper template of one piece to check the scale, take it. It's much cheaper than reprinting a helmet.
What a quote should spell out
Ask every maker to confirm the same list so you can line the quotes up:
- Pieces included, by name
- Material, and how thick the walls or foam are
- Finish level (from the table above)
- Strapping and fastening method, if wearable
- Timeline, with the date it ships, not the date work starts
- Shipping method and packing for large, fragile parts
- Payment terms
Payment terms vary a lot between makers. One cosplay maker's published FAQ asks for an upfront deposit of roughly a fifth to a half of the quote. Another maker's commission page asks for 65% upfront and 35% before shipping. Neither is wrong, but know what you're agreeing to before you pay.
Shipping and customs
Armor ships big and light, and couriers price by box size. A full suit can mean several boxes. If the maker is in another country, import duties and taxes are usually yours to pay on delivery. Check your own country's rules before you accept a quote from abroad. Ask the maker whether the shipping figure includes insurance.
Red flags
- A quote far below everyone else's. The 405th thread puts it bluntly: very low prices usually mean the maker undervalues the labour, lacks experience, or isn't legitimate.
- No photos of finished armor they've made, only renders or other people's work.
- Vague scope like "full set" with no piece list.
- Pressure to pay outside whatever system you agreed to use.
Foam vs 3D print vs resin for cosplay armor: what moves the price
Three materials cover almost every armor commission. They differ more on weight and detail than on looks once painted.
| EVA foam | 3D print (PLA/PETG) | Resin (print or cast) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What pushes the price | Hand carving and shaping time | Print hours, plus sanding and priming | Material, casting or printing, heavy finishing |
| Weight | Lightest | Medium | Heaviest |
| Fine detail | Carved or heat-shaped; soft edges | Sharp, repeatable | Sharpest |
| Con survivability | Bends, doesn't break | Can crack on impact | Chips and cracks |
| Turnaround | Fastest | Medium (print time) | Slowest |
Size, detail and finish move the price more than the material name does. A large, heavily detailed piece costs more in any of the three. Ask makers to quote the same piece in two materials and compare.
Choose foam for full sets you'll wear all day, large pieces, anything that has to survive a crowd. Most Mandalorian, fantasy plate and mech-suit commissions are foam.
Choose 3D print for helmets, hardware, greebles and anything with panel lines or text. A foam chest with printed helmet and gauntlets is a common hybrid.
Choose resin for small, high-detail pieces: emblems, jewellery, weapon fittings, competition entries where finish matters more than weight.
Say which you want in the brief, or say "maker's choice" and let the bids tell you. Posting is free, and you compare real bids from makers before you pay.
EVA foam cosplay commission: thickness, density, sealing and what to send
You do not need to know foam to commission foam. You do need to know which three choices change the result, so you can tell two quotes apart: thickness, density and finish. This page covers those, plus what keeps a foam build alive at a convention. For how foam compares with prints and resin, see our existing foam vs 3D print vs resin post.
Thickness: different parts, different sheets
EVA comes in sheets from about 2 mm to 12 mm (Cosplay Advice, 405th). Makers mix them. Published guides agree on the broad pattern, though the exact numbers vary by maker:
| Use | What guides suggest |
|---|---|
| Fine detail, edging, raised lines | 1 mm (Lyrical Villain) or 2 mm (DexKosu) |
| Vambraces, pauldrons, greaves | 2 to 4 mm (Lyrical Villain) |
| Curved or wrapped pieces | 6 mm (DexKosu); 6 to 8 mm for flexible armour (Cosplay Advice) |
| Large structural plates: chestplate, greaves | 10 mm (DexKosu) |
DexKosu notes that mixing thicknesses is what gives armour depth. In a quote, a maker who lists thicknesses per piece is telling you they have planned the build.
Density: stiff or flexible
Density is how firm the foam is. Lyrical Villain recommends high-density foam because it is stiffer and holds its shape better. The 405th guide adds that foam gets more rigid as density rises, so a prop such as a rifle should use high-density foam to limit flex.
That tells you what to ask for:
- Props and weapons that should not droop: high density.
- Armour that bends with your body, such as arm and leg pieces: a flexible grade at moderate thickness.
- Large plates: thicker and firmer.
Suppliers label density differently. If it matters, ask which foam product the maker uses, not just "high density".
Sealing and priming: the step that decides how it looks
Raw EVA is porous. DexKosu says unsealed foam absorbs paint unevenly and then cracks as the piece flexes, and calls skipping the seal the number one reason foam armour looks patchy and cracks after one wear. Its suggested fix is two to four light coats of Plasti Dip or a flexible primer, or a heat-gun pass.
The 405th guide recommends using a heat gun to seal the outer layer, then applying a sealant such as Plasti Dip or Mod Podge before painting. Lyrical Villain says heat sealing reduces how much brush-on or spray-on sealant you need. Cosplay Advice says primer is essential, and recommends one that stays flexible when dry. It adds that more flexible paints generally give a cleaner finish.
For you, the point is this: sealed and primed foam is a finish level, and it should be named in the quote.
What makes foam last
- Seams. DexKosu: contact cement is the standard for permanent structural seams, while hot glue is acceptable for temporary fixes and small trim but stays rigid and pops off under flex.
- Modular design. A pauldron that unclips packs flat and survives travel better than a one-piece torso (DexKosu).
- Reinforcement. Lyrical Villain says wire can be glued in to help a build keep its shape.
- Heat-shaping. Cosplay Advice warns that heat-shaping can leave small holes at seams, which should be filled before painting.
Ask the maker how the piece will be fastened and whether you can take it apart for travel.
Safety
Cosplay Advice says EVA foam releases mildly toxic fumes when heated and should be worked in a well-ventilated area, and that sanding calls for eye and respiratory protection. That is a maker's workshop concern. For you: if a piece has a strong chemical smell when it arrives, let it air out in a ventilated space, and ask the maker what cement and paint they used if anyone wearing it has sensitivities. Keep foam away from open flame and heat.
What to send
- Character, version and reference images from front, back and sides.
- Piece list. Makers price per piece.
- Measurements taken over the underlayer you will wear.
- Weight and flex needs: all-day wear, or photos only.
- Finish level: raw, sealed and primed, painted, weathered.
- Fastening: straps, magnets, buckles, hidden clips.
- Date needed and the event, plus your delivery country.
FAQ
Can I commission just the helmet? Yes. Helmets are one of the most common single-piece armor commissions. Send head measurements and front, side and back references.
Should I buy a 3D model file myself and have someone print it? You can. Make sure the file's licence allows a third party to print it for you, and say in your brief that you're supplying the file.
How long does an armor commission take? It depends on the number of pieces, the finish level and the maker's queue. Put your deadline (and the event) in the brief so makers who can't hit it don't bid.
Do I need to know which material I want? No. "Maker's choice" is a fine answer. You'll see in the bids which material each maker prefers and why.
How do I avoid losing my deposit? Use a payment method with protection. On The Spool List, your payment is protected until you confirm delivery, and disputes go to the platform rather than being left between you and the maker.
Is EVA foam armour durable? The guides we read put the weight on sealing, strong seams, reinforcement and a design that comes apart for travel.
What thickness should my armour be? Guides suggest thinner sheets for detail and limbs, and 10 mm for large plates. Ask the maker to list thickness per piece.
Does foam need painting? It needs sealing and priming first, otherwise paint soaks in and can crack.
Post your armor commission free on The Spool List and compare bids from independent makers.